SEARCHING FOR THE QUININE-PLANT IN
PERU.
CONCLUDING PAPER.
Early on a brilliant morning, with baggage repacked, and the
lessening amount of provisions more firmly strapped on the
shoulders of the Indians, the explorers left their pleasant
site on the banks of the Maniri. The repose allowed to the bulk
of the party during the absence of their Bolivian companions
had been wholesome and refreshing. The success of the
bark-hunters in their search for cinchonas had cheered all
hearts, and the luxurious supper of dried mutton and chuno
arranged for them on their return gave a reminiscence of
splendor to the thatched hut on the banks of the stream. This
edifice, the last of civilized construction they expected to
see, had the effect of a home in the wilderness. The bivouac
there had been enjoyed with a sentiment of tranquil
carelessness. Little did the travelers think that savage eyes
had been peeping through the forest upon their fancied
security, and that the wild people of the valleys who were to
work them all kinds of mischief were upon their track from this
station forth.
The enormous fire kindled for breakfast mingled with the
stain of sunrise to cast a glow upon their departure. Across
the vale of the Cconi, as though a pair of sturdy porters had
arisen to celebrate their leavetaking, the cones of Patabamba
caught the first rays of the sun and held them aloft like
hospitable torches. These huge forms, soldered together at the
waist like Chang and Eng, and clothed with shaggy woods up to
the top, had been the guardian watchers over their days in the
ajoupa at Maniri. The sun just rising empurpled their double
cones, while the base and the surrounding landscape were washed
with the neutral tints of twilight.
After passing the narrow affluent after which the
camping-ground of Maniri was named, the party pursued the
course of the Cconi through a more level tract of country. The
stones and precipices became more rare, but in revenge the
sandy banks soon began to reflect a heat that was hardly
bearable. As the implacable sun neared its zenith the party
walked with bent heads and blinded eyes, now dashing through
great plains of bamboos, now following the hatchets of the
peons through thickets of heated shrubbery.
Whenever the country became more wooded in its character,
the bark-hunters, whose quest obliged them to stray in short
flights around the wings of the column, redoubled their mazes.
The careless air of these Bolivian retrievers, their voluntary
doublings through the most difficult jungles, and their easy
way of walking over everything with their noses in the air,
proved well their indifference to the obstacles which were
almost insurmountable to the rest.
 The Cones of
Patabamba
Nothing could be more singular and interesting than to see
them consulting one by one the indications scattered around
them, and deciding on their probabilities or promises. Where
the height and thickness of the foliage prevented them from
seeing the sky, or even the shade of the surrounding green,
they walked bent toward the ground, stirring up the rubbish,
and choosing among the dead foliage certain leaves, of which
they carefully examined the two sides and the stem. When by
accident they found themselves near enough to speak to each
other—a rare chance, for each peon undertook a separate
line of search—they asked their friends, showing the
leaves they had found, whether their discoveries appertained to
the neighboring trees or whether the wind had brought the
pieces from a distance. This kind of investigation, pursued by
men who had prowled through forests all their lives, might seem
slightly puerile if the reader does not understand that it is
often difficult, or even impossible, to recognize the growing
tree by its bark, covered as it is from base to branches with
parasitic vegetation of every sort. In those forests whatever
has a stout stem is used without scruple by the bignonias and
air-plants, which race over the trunk, plant their root-claws
in the cracks, leap over the whole tree at a single jet, or
strangle it with multiplied knots, all the while adorning it
with a superb mantle of leaves and blossoms. This is a
difficulty which the most experienced cascarilleros are
not able to overcome. As an instance, the history is cited of a
practico or speculator who led an exploration for these
trees in the valley of Apolobamba. After having caused to be
felled, barked, measured, dried and trimmed all the cinchonas
of one of those natural thickets called manchas—an
operation which had occupied four months—he was about to
abandon the spot and pursue the exploration elsewhere, when
accident led him to discover, in the enormous trunk buried in
creepers against which he had built his cabin, a Cinchona
nitida, the forefather of all the trees he had
stripped.
In this kind of search the caravan pursued the borders of
the river, sometimes on this side and sometimes on that, now
passing the two-headed mountain Camanti, now sighting the
tufted peak of Basiri, now crossing the torrent called the
Garote. In the latter, where the dam and hydraulic works of an
old Spanish gold-hunter were still visible in a state of ruin,
the sacred golden thirst of Colonel Perez once more attacked
him. Two or three pins' heads of the insane metal were actually
unearthed by the colonel and displayed in a pie-dish; but the
business of the party was one which made even the finding of
gold insignificant, and they pursued their way.
The flanks of these mountains, however, were really of
importance to the botanical motive of the expedition. Along the
side of the Camanti, where the yellow Garote leaked downward in
a rocky ravine, the Bolivians were again successful. They
brought to Marcoy specimens of half a dozen cinchonas, for him
to sketch, analyze and decorate with Latin names. The colors of
two or three of these barks promised well, but the pearl of the
collection was a specimen of the genuine Calisaya, with
its silver-gray envelope and leaf ribbed with carmine. This
proud discovery was a boon for science and for commerce. It
threw a new light upon the geographical locality of the most
precious species of cinchona. It was incontestably the plant,
and the Bolivians appeared amazed rather than pleased to have
discovered outside of their own country a kind of bark proper
only to Bolivia, and hardly known to overpass the northern
extremity of the valley of Apolobamba. This discovery would
rehabilitate, in the European market, the quinine-plants of
Lower Peru, heretofore considered as inferior to those of Upper
Peru and Bolivia. The latter country has for some time secured
the most favorable reputation for its barks—a reputation
ably sustained by the efforts of the company De la Paz, to whom
the government has long granted a monopoly. This reputation is
based on the abundance in that country of two species, the
Cinchona calisaya and Boliviana, the best known
and most valued in the market. But for two valuable cinchonas
possessed by Bolivia, Peru can show twenty, many of them
excellent in quality, and awaiting only the enterprise of the
government and the natural exhaustion of the forests to the
south.
This magnificent bit of luck, the finding of the calisaya,
awakened in the susceptible bosom of Mr. Marcoy an ardent
desire to explore for himself the site of its discovery. But
Eusebio, the chief of the cascarilleros, assuming a mysterious
and warning expression, informed the traveler that the place
was quite inaccessible for a white man, and that he had risked
his own neck a score of times in descending the ravine which
separated the route from the hillside where the fortunate
plants were growing. He promised, however, to point out the
locality from afar, and to show, by a certain changeable gloss
proper to the leaf, the precise stratum of the calisaya amongst
the belts of the forest. This promise he forgot to execute more
particularly, but it appeared that the locality would never be
excessively hard to find, marked as it was by Nature with the
gigantic finger-post of Mount Camanti. Placing, then, in
security these precious specimens among their baggage, the
explorers continued their advance along the valley.
The footing was level and easy. Rocks and precipices were
left behind, and were displaced by a soft, slippery sort of
sand, where from space to space were planted, like so many
oases in a desert, clumps of giant reeds. By a strange but
natural caprice these beds of rustling verdure were cut in an
infinity of well-defined geometric forms. Seen from an eminence
and at a distance, this arrangement gave a singular effect. In
the midst of these native garden-beds were cut distinct and
narrow alleys, where the drifting sands were packed like
artificial paths. It is unnecessary to add that the soft
footways, notwithstanding their advertisement of verdure and
shade, proved to be of African temperature.
The last hours of daylight surprised the travelers among the
labyrinths of these strange gardens. A suitable spot was chosen
for the halt. As the porters were preparing to throw down their
packs, Pepe Garcia, who marched ahead, announced the print of a
South American tiger. The first care of the Indians, on hearing
this news, was to send forth a horrible cry and to throng
around the marks. The footprints disappeared at the thickest
part of the jungle. After an examination of the traces, which
resembled a large trefoil, they precipitated themselves on the
interpreter-in-chief, representing how impossible it was to
camp out in the neighborhood of the dreaded animal. But Pepe
Garcia, accustomed as he was by profession to try his strength
with the ferocious bear and the wily boar, was not the man to
be afraid of a tiger, even of a genuine tiger from Bengal. To
prove to the porters how slight was the estimation he placed on
the supposed enemy, and also to drill them in the case of
similar rencounters, he pushed the whole troop pellmell into
the thickest part of the reeds, with the surly order to cut
down the canes for sheds. Drawing his own knife, he slashed
right and left among the stems, which the Indians, trembling
with fear, were obliged to make into sheaves on the spot and
transport to the beach selected for the bivouac. Double rows of
these arundos, driven into the sand, formed the
partitions of the cabins, for which their interwoven leaves
made an appropriate thatch. The green halls with matted vaults
were picturesque enough; each peon, seeing how easily they were
constructed, chose to have a house for himself; and the Tiger's
Beach quickly presented the appearance of a camp disposed in a
long straight line, of which the timorous Indians occupied the
extremity nearest the river.
No "tiger" appeared to justify the apprehensions of the
porters; but what was lacking to their fears from beasts with
four feet was made up to them by beasts with wings. The night
closed in dry and serene. Since leaving Maniri, whether because
of the broadening of the valley, the rarity of the
water-courses or the decreasing altitude of the hills, the
adventurers had been little troubled with fogs at night. The
fauna of the region, too, had offered nothing of an alarming
complexion, except the footprints of the tiger in question: an
occasional tapir or peccary from the woods, and otters and fish
from the streams, had attracted the shots of the party, but
merely as welcome additions to their game-bags, not as food for
their fears. To-night, however, the veritable bugbear of the
tropical forest paid them a visit, and left a real souvenir of
his presence. As the Indian servants stretched themselves out
in slumber under the bright stars and in the partial shelter of
their ajoupas, a bat of the vampire species, attracted by the
emanations of their bodies, came sailing over them, and
emboldened by the silence reigning everywhere, selected a
victim for attack. Hovering over the fellow's exposed foot, he
bit the great toe, and fanning his prey in the traditional yet
inevitable manner by the natural movement of his wings, he
gorged himself with blood without disturbing the mozo. The
latter, on awakening in the morning, observed a slight swelling
in the perforated part, and on examination discovered a round
hole large enough to admit a pea. Without rising, the man
summoned his companions, who formed a group around him for the
purpose of furnishing a certain natural remedy in the shape of
a secretion which each one drew out of his ears. With this the
patient made himself a plaster for his wound, and appeared to
think but little of it. Questioned as to his sensations by the
white travelers, who found themselves a good deal more
disturbed with the idea of the vampire than they had been by
any indications of tigers or wild-boars, the fellow explained
that he had felt no sensation, unless it might have been an
agreeable coolness of his sand-baked feet. The incident seemed
so disagreeable and so likely of recurrence that Colonel Perez
ever afterward slept with his feet rolled up in a variety of
fantastic draperies, while Mr. Marcoy for several nights
retained his boots.
 'Pepe Garcia, Who Marched Ahead, Announced the Print
Of A South American Tiger.'
The path along the river-sands would have been voluntarily
followed by all the more irresponsible portion of the party,
notwithstanding the blinding heats, on account of its smoother
footing. The cascarilleros, however, objected that its tufts of
canes and passifloras offered no promise for their researches.
A compromise was effected. The porters, under the command of
Juan of Aragon, were allowed to follow the shore, and were
armed with a supply of fish-hooks to induce them to add from
time to time to the alarmingly diminished supply of provisions.
The grandees of the party followed the Bolivians, whose
specialty entitled them to control practically the direction of
the route, and plunged into the woods to botanize, to explore
and to search for game. A system of conversation by means of
shouts and pistol-shots was established between the two
divisions. The next night proved the wisdom of this
bifurcation. The united booty of earth, air and water, under
the form of a squirrel, a pair of toucans and a variety of
fish, afforded a meal which the porters described as comida
opipara or a sumptuous festival. Lulled and comforted by
the sensation which a contented stomach wafts toward the brain,
the explorers, after washing their hands and rinsing their
mouths at the riverside, betook themselves to a cheerful repose
sub jove, the locality offering no reeds of the
articulated species with which to construct a shelter.
The party, then, betook themselves to slumber with unusual
contentment, repeating the splendid supper in their dreams,
with the addition of every famous wine that Oporto and Rheims
could dispense, when they were awakened by a sudden and
terrible storm. A waterspout stooped over the forest and sucked
up a mass of crackling branches. The camp-fire hissed and went
out in a fume of smoke. A continuity of thunder, far off at
first, but approaching nearer and nearer, kept up a constant
and increasing fusillade, to whose reports was soon added the
voice of the Cconi, lashed in its bed and bellowing like the
sea. The surprising tumult went on in a crescendo. The
hardly-interrupted charges of the lightning gave to the eye a
strange vision of flying woods and soaring branches. Startled,
trembling and sitting bolt upright, the adventurers asked if
their last hour were come. The rain undertook to answer in
spinning down upon their heads drops that were like bullets,
and which for some time were taken for hail. Fearing to be
maimed or blinded as they sat, the party crowded together,
placing themselves back to back; and, unable to lay their heads
under their wings like the birds, sheltered them upon their
knees under the protection of their crossed arms. The fearful
deluge of heated shot lasted until morning. Then, as if in
laughter, the sun came radiantly out, the landscape readjusted
its disheveled beauties, and the ground, covered with boughs
distributed by the whirlwind, greedily drank in the waters from
heaven. Soon there remained nothing of the memorable tempest
but the diamonds falling in measured cadence from the refreshed
and stiffened leaves.
Up to sunrise the unfortunates rested stoically silent,
their knees in their mouths, and receiving the visitation like
a group of statuary. The rain ceasing with the same promptitude
with which it had risen, they raised their heads and looked
each other in the face, like the enemies over the fire in
Byron's Dream. Each countenance was blue, and decorated
with long flat locks of adhesive hair. The teeth of the whole
party were chattering like a concert of castanets. The sun,
like a practical joker, laughed ironically at the general
picture.
The first hours of morning were consecrated to a general
examination of the stores, especially the precious specimens of
cinchona. Bundles were restrapped, the damp provisions laid out
in the sun, and the clothing of the party, even to the most
intimate garment, was taken down to the river to be refreshed
and furbished up. A common disaster had created a common cause
amongst the whole troop, and with one accord
everybody—peons, mozos, interpreters, bark-strippers and
gentlemen—set in motion a grand cleaning-up day.
Napoleon-like, they washed their dirty linen in the family.
Whoever had seen the strangers coming and going from the beach
to the woods, clothed in most abbreviated fashion, and seeming
as familiar to the uniform as if they had always worn it under
the charitable mantle of the woods, would have taken them for a
savage tribe in the midst of its encampment. It is probable
they were so seen.
Thanks to the intense heat of the sun-shine, the garments
and baggage of the expedition were quickly dried. The first
were donned, the last was loaded on the porters, and the line
of march was taken up. Up to noon the road lay along the
blazing sands under a sun of fire. All the members of the party
felt fresh and hardy after the involuntary bath, except one of
the Indians, who was affected with a kind of ophthalmia. This
attack, which Mr. Marcoy attributed partly to the glare, partly
to the wet, and partly to a singular hobby peculiar to the
individual of sleeping with his eyes wide open, was of no long
duration. The pain which he complained of disappeared with a
few hours of exercise and with the determination he showed in
staring straight at the god of day, who, as if in memory of the
worship formerly extended toward him in the country, deigned to
serve as oculist for the sufferer. A little before sunset halt
was made for the night-camp in the centre of a beach protected
by clumps of reeds in three quarters of the wind. The Indian
porters, despatched for fish and firewood, returned suddenly
with a frightened mien to say that they had fallen into the
midst of a camp of savages. The white men quickly rejoined them
at the spot indicated, where they found a single hut in ruins,
made of reeds which appeared to have been cut for the
construction some fortnight before, and strewn with
fire-brands, banana skins and the tail of a large fish. Pepe
Garcia, consulted on these indications, explained that it was
in reality the camping-place of some of the savage Siriniris,
but that the narrowness of the hut seemed to indicate that not
more than two of the Indians, probably a man and woman, had
resided there during a short fishing-excursion.
This discovery cast a shade over the countenances of the
porters. After having collected the provisions necessary for a
slender supper, they drew apart, and, while cooking was going
on, began to converse with each other in a low voice. No notice
was taken of their behavior, however, though it would have
required little imagination to guess the subject of their
parliament. The tired eyes of the explorers were already
closed, while their ears, more alert, could hear the confused
murmur proceeding from the Indians' quarter, where the
disposition seemed to be to prolong the watch
indefinitely.
 'Napoleon-like, They Washed Their Dirty Linen in The
Family'
The dark hours filed past, and jocund day, according to
Shakespeare and Romeo, stood tiptoe on the mountain-tops of
Camanti and Basiri, when the travelers were awakened by a
fierce and terrible cry. Lifting their heads in astonishment,
they perceived the faithful Pepe Garcia, his face disfigured
with rage, and his fist shaking vigorously in the direction of
the Indians, who sat lowering and sullen in their places.
Aragon and the cascarilleros, collected around the chief
interpreter, far from trying to calm his anger, appeared to
feed it by their suggestions. An explanation of the scene was
demanded. Eight of the bearers, it appeared, had deserted,
leaving to their comrades the pleasure of watching over the
packages of cinchona, but assuming for their part the charge of
a good fraction of the provisions, which they had disappeared
with for the relief of their fellow-porters. This copious
bleeding of the larder drew from Colonel Perez a terrible oath,
and occasioned a more vivid sentiment in the entrails of Marcoy
than the defection of the men. If the evil was grand, the
remedy was correspondingly difficult. Indolent or mercurial at
pleasure, the Indians had doubtless threaded the woods with
winged feet, and were now far away. Mr. Marcoy proposed
therefore to continue the march without them, but to set down a
heavy account of bastinadoes to their credit when they should
turn up again at Marcapata. This proposition, as it erred on
the side of mercy, was unanimously rejected, and a
scouting-party was ordered in pursuit, consisting of the
bark-hunters and Juan of Aragon, to whom for the occasion Pepe
Garcia confided his remarkable
fowling-piece.
 'Aragon and his Men Fell Upon the Deserters Without
Mercy.'
In the afternoon the extemporized police reappeared. The
fugitives had been found tranquilly sitting on the banks of the
river, distending their abdomens with the stolen preserves and
chocolate. Aragon and his men fell upon the deserters without
mercy. The former, battering away at them with the stock of his
gun, and the latter, exercising upon their shoulders whatever
they possessed in the way of lassoes, axe-handles and
sabre-blades, maintained the argument effectually for some time
in this way, and did not descend to questions until muscular
fatigue caused them to desist. The catechism subsequently put
to the porters elicited the reply, from the spokesman of the
recusants, that they were tired of being afraid of the wild
Indians; that they objected to marching into the dens of
tigers; that, perceiving their rations diminished from day to
day, they had imagined the time not far distant when the same
would be withdrawn altogether. It was curious, as it seemed to
Marcoy when the argument was rehearsed to him presently, that
the fellows made no complaint of being footsore, overcharged
with burdens or conducted into paths too difficult for them. A
lurking admiration for the vigor with which, after all, they
played their crushing part of beasts of burden, procured them
immunity from further punishment after their return. Their
bivouacs were simply watched on the succeeding nights by
Bolivian sentinels.
After a few minutes allowed the strayed sheep to rub their
bruises, the march was continued. The afternoon afforded a
succession of the same sandy riverbanks, dressed with reeds,
false maize, calceolarias and purple passion-flowers, and
yielding for sole booty a brace of wild black ducks, and an
opossum holding in her pouch five saucy and scolding little
ones. The natural civet employed as a cosmetic by this animal
forbade the notion of using it for food, and it was thrown with
its family into the river, after being deprived of its glossy
skin.
As evening approached, and as all eyes were exploring the
banks for a suitable camping-ground, a spacious and even beach
was fixed upon as offering all the requisite conveniences. It
was agreed to halt there. Attaining the locality, however, they
were amazed to find all the traces of a previous occupation.
Several sheds, formed of bamboo hurdles set up against the
ground with sticks, like traps, were grouped together. Under
each was a hearth, a simple excavation, two feet across and a
few inches deep, and filled with ashes. A few arrows, feathers
and rude pieces of pottery were scattered around. They greeted
these Indian relics as Crusoe did the footprints of the
savages. Nor was it more reassuring to observe, among other
callers like themselves who had left their visiting-cards at
the doors since the departure of the proprietors, the
sign-manual of jaguars and tapirs, whose footprints were
plainly visible on the gravel.
A close examination was made of every detail pertaining to
the huts and their accessories, and the interpreters were asked
if it would be prudent to encamp in a spot thus leased in
advance. Pepe Garcia and Aragon were of opinion that it would
be better to pass the night there, assuring their employers
that there would be no danger in sleeping among the teraphim of
the savages, provided that nothing was touched or displaced.
Their motion was promptly adopted, to the great discomfiture of
the porters, who were poised on one foot ready for flight. A
salute of five shots was fired, with a vague intention of
giving any listeners the highest possible opinion of the white
explorers as a military power. An enormous fire was kindled,
sentinels were posted, and the party turned in, taking care,
however, during the whole night to close but one eye at a
time.
 'They Greeted These Indian Relics As Crusoe Did The
Footprints of the Savages.'
Day commenced to blush, when all ears were assaulted by a
concerted howl, proceeding from behind a bed of canes on the
other side of the river. "Alerta! los Chunchos!" cried
the sentinel. The three words produced a startling effect: the
porters sprang up like frightened deer; Mr. Marcoy grasped a
sheaf of pencils and a box of water-colors with a warlike air,
and the colonel's lips were crisped into a singular smile,
indicative of lively emotions. Hardly were the travelers
clothed and armed when the reeds parted with a rattling noise,
and three nude Indians, sepia-colored and crowned with tufts of
hair like horses' tails, leaped out like jacks-in-the-box. At
sight of the party standing to receive them they redoubled
their clamor, then, flourishing their arms and legs and turning
continually round, they gradually revolved into the presence of
the explorers. They selected as chiefs and sachems of the party
such as bore weapons, being the colonel, Marcoy and the two
interpreters. These they clasped in a warm, fulsome embrace:
they were smeared from head to foot with rocoa (crude arnotta),
and their passage through the river having dissolved this
pigment, they printed themselves off, in this act of amity,
upon the persons and clothing of their hosts. While the white
men, with a very bad grace, were cleaning off these tokens of
natural affection, the new-comers went on to present their
civilities all around. Two of the porters they recognized at
once, with their eagle eyesight, from having relieved them of
their shirts while the latter were working out some penalty at
the governor's farm of Sausipata, and proceeded to claim a warm
acquaintance on that basis; but the bearers, with equally
lively memories of the affront, responded simply with a frown
and the epithet of Sua-sua—double thief.
Pepe Garcia undertook a colloquy, and Aragon, not to be
behindhand, flashed a few words across the conversation, right
and left as it were, his expressions appearing to be in a
different tongue from those used by the chief interpreter, and
both utterly without perceptible resemblance to the rolling
consonants and gutturals of the savages. Marcoy imbibed a
strong impression that the only terms understood in common were
the words of Spanish with which the palaver was thickly
interlarded. This was the first time the interpreters were put
on their mettle in a strictly professional sense, and the test
was not altogether triumphant. However, by a careful raising of
the voice in all difficult passages, and a wild, expressive
pantomime, an understanding was arrived at.
The visitors belonged to the tribe of Siriniris, inhabiting
the space comprised between the valleys of Ocongate and
Ollachea, and extending eastwardly as far as the twelfth
degree. They lived at peace with their neighbors, the
Huat-chipayris and the Pukiris. For several days the reports of
the Christian guns (tasa-tasa) had advertised them of
the presence of white men in the valley, and, curious to judge
of their numbers, they had approached. They had formed a
cunning escort to the party, always faithful but never seen,
since the encampment at Maniri: every camping-ground since that
particular bivouac they faithfully described. They were, of
course, in particular and direful need of sirutas and
bambas (knives and hatchets), but their fears of the
tasa-tasa, or guns, was still stronger than their
desires, and their courage had not, until they saw the
strangers domiciled as guests in their own habitations,
attained the firmness and consistency necessary for a personal
approach. The three dancing ambassadors were ministers
plenipotentiary on the part of their tribe, located in a bamboo
metropolis five miles off.
The white men could not well avoid laying down their
tasa-tasa and disbursing sirutas and
bambas. The savages, after this triumph of diplomacy,
suddenly turned, and, thrusting their fingers in their mouths,
emitted a shrill note, which had the effect of enchanting the
forest of rushes across the river, and causing it to give birth
to a whole ballet of naked coryphei. Nine men, seven women and
three dogs composed the spectacle, of which the masculine part,
the human and the canine, proceeded to swim the stream and
fraternize with the strangers. The women rested on the bank
like river-nymphs: their costume was somewhat less prudish than
that of the men, the coat of rocoa being confined to their
faces, which were further decorated with joints of reed thrust
through the nose and ears. A glance of curiosity darted across
the water by the colonel was surprised in its flight by the
ambassadors, who addressed a hasty word or two to their ladies:
the latter, with one quick and cat-like gesture, whipped off
each a branch of the nearest foliage, and were dressed in a
single instant.
To reward all these vociferous mendicants with the
invaluable cutlery was hardly prudent. Seeing the hesitation of
their visitors, the savages adopted other tactics. Hurling
themselves across the river, they quickly reappeared, armed
with all the temptations they could think of to induce the
strangers to barter. The scene of these savages coming to
market was a picturesque one. Entering the water, provided with
their objects of exchange, which they held high above their
heads, and swimming with the right arm only, they began to cut
the river diagonally. The lifting of the waves and the dash of
spray almost concealed the file of dusky heads. Nothing could
be plainly seen but the left arms, standing out of the water as
stiff and inflexible as so many bars of bronze, relieved
against the silvery brightness of the water. These advancing
arms were adorned with the material of traffic—bird-skins
of variegated colors, bows and arrows, and live tamed parrots
standing upon perches of bamboo. The white spectators could not
but admire the native vigor, elegance and promptitude of their
motions as they rose from the water like Tritons, and, throwing
their treasures down in a heap, bounded forward to give their
visitors the conventional signals of friendship. A rapid
bargain was concluded, in which the sylvan booty of the wild
men (not forgetting the prudent exaction of their weapons) was
entirely made over to the custody of the explorers in exchange
for a few Birmingham knives worth fourpence each.
However curious and amicable might be their new relations
with the savages, the party were desirous to put an end to them
as soon as possible. Pepe Garcia announced that the pale
chiefs, wishing to resume their march, were about to separate
from them. This decision appeared to be unpleasant or
distressful in their estimation, and they tried to reverse it
by all sorts of arguments. No answer being volunteered, they
shouted to their women to await them, and betook themselves to
walking with the party. One of the three ambassadors, a
graceful rogue of twenty-five, marked all over with rocoa and
lote, so as to earn for himself the nickname of "the Panther,"
gamboled and caracoled in front of the procession as if to give
it an entertainment. His two comrades had garroted with their
arms the neck of the chief interpreter: another held Juan of
Aragon by the skirt of his blouse, and regulated his steps by
those of the youth. This accord of barbarism and civilization
had in it something decidedly graceful, and rather pathetic: if
ever the language natural to man was found, the medium in
circulation before our sickly machinery of speech came to be
invented, it was in this concert of persuasive action and
tender cooing notes. The main body of the Siriniris marched
pellmell along with the porters, whom this vicinage made
exceedingly uncomfortable, and who were perspiring in great
drops.
At the commencement of a wood the whites embraced the
occasion to take formal leave of their new acquaintances. As
they endeavored to turn their backs upon them they were at once
surrounded by the whole band, crying and gesticulating, and
opposing their departure with a sort of determined
playfulness.
At the same time a word often repeated, the word
Huatinmio, began to enter largely into their
conversation, and piqued the curiosity of the historiographer.
Marcoy begged the interpreter to procure him the explanation of
this perpetual shibboleth. Half by signs, half in the polyglot
jargon which he had been employing with the Siriniris, Garcia
managed to understand that the word in question was the name of
their village, situated at a small distance and in a direction
which they indicated. In this retreat, they said, no
inhabitants remained but women, children and old men, the rest
of the braves being absent on a chase. They proposed a visit to
their capital, where the strangers, they said, honored and
cherished by the tribe, might pass many enviable days.
The proposed excursion, which would cause a loss of
considerable time and a deflection from the intended route, was
declined in courteous terms by Marcoy through the
interpretation of Pepe Garcia. Among civilized folk this urbane
refusal would have sufficed, but the savages, taking such a
reply as a challenge to verbal warfare, returned to the charge
with increased tenacity. It were hard to say what natural logic
they put in practice or what sylvan persuasions they wrought
by, but their peculiar mode of stroking the white men's backs
with their hands, and the softer and still softer inflections
which they introduced into their voices, would have melted
hearts of marble. In brief, the civilized portion adopted the
more weakly part and allowed themselves to be led by the savage
portion.
The colonel and Pepe Garcia were still more easily persuaded
than Mr. Marcoy, and only awaited his adhesion. When it was
finally announced the Siriniris renewed their gambols and
uttered shouts of delight. They then took the head of the
excursion. A singularity in their guides, which quickly
attracted the notice of the explorers, was the perfect
indifference with which they took either the clearings or the
thickets in their path. Where the strangers were afraid of
tearing their garments, these unprotected savages had no care
whatever for their skins. It is true that their ingenuity in
gliding through the labyrinth resembled magic. However the
forest might bristle with undergrowth, they never thought of
breaking down obstacles or of cutting them, as the equally
practiced Bolivians did, with a knife. They contented
themselves with putting aside with one hand the tufts of
foliage as if they had been curtains or draperies, and that
with an easy decision of gesture and an elegance of attitude
which are hardly found outside of certain natural tribes.
The city of Huatinmio proved to be a group of seven large
sheds perched among plaintains and bananas, divided into
stalls, and affording shelter for a hundred individuals. The
most sordid destitution—if ignorance of comfort can be
called destitution—reigned everywhere around. The women
were especially hideous, and on receipt of presents of small
bells and large needles became additionally disagreeable in
their antics of gratitude. The bells were quickly inserted in
their ears, and soon the whole village was in
tintinnabulation.
A night was passed in the hospitality of these barbarians,
who vacated their largest cabin for their guests. A repast was
served, consisting of stewed monkey: no salt was used in the
cookery, but on the other hand a dose of pimento was thrown in,
which brought tears to the eyes of the strangers and made them
run to the water-jar as if to save their lives. The evening was
spent in a general conversation with the Siriniris, who were
completely mystified by the form and properties of a candle
which Mr. Marcoy drew from his baggage and ignited. The wild
men passed it from hand to hand, examining it, and singeing
themselves in turn. Still another marvel was the sheet of paper
on which the artist essayed a portrait of one of his hosts. The
finished sketch did not appear to attract them at all, or to
raise in their minds the faintest association with the human
form, but the texture and whiteness of the sheet excited their
lively admiration, and they passed it from one to another with
many exclamations of wonder. Meantime, a number of questions
were suggested and proposed through the interpreter.
The formality of marriage among the Siriniris was found to
be quite unknown; the most rudimentary idea of divine worship
could not be discovered; the treatment of the aged was shown to
be contemptuous and neglectful in the extreme; and the lines of
demarcation with the beasts seemed to be but feebly traced.
Finally, Mr. Marcoy begged the interpreter to propound the
delicate inquiry whether, among the viands with which they
nourished or had formerly nourished themselves, human flesh had
found a place. Garcia hesitated, and at first declined to push
the interrogation, but after some persuasion consented. The
Siriniris were not in the least shocked at the question, and
answered that the flesh of man, especially in infancy, was a
delicious food, far better than the monkey, the tapir or the
peccary; that their nation, in the days of its power,
frequently used it at the great feasts; but that the difficulty
of procuring such a rarity had increased until they were now
forced to strike it from their bill of fare.
The night passed without disturbance, and the next day's
parting was accompanied by reiterated requests for a repetition
of the visit. The Panther, who since their arrival had
oppressed the travelers with a multitude of officious
attentions, escorted them into the woods, and there took leave
of them with a gesture of his hand, relieving their eyes of his
slippery, snake-like robe of spots. A knife from their stores,
slung round his neck like a locket, smote his breast at each
step as he danced backward, and a couple of large fish-hooks
glanced in his ears.
With a feeling of relief and satisfied curiosity the
exploring party left behind them the traces of these children
of Nature, and returned toward the river. The cascarilleros,
all for their business, had regretted the waste of time, and
now betook themselves to an examination of the woods with all
their energy. After several hours of march their efforts were
crowned with success. Eusebio presently rejoined his employers,
showing leaves and berries of the Cinchona scrobiculata
and pubescens: the peons, on their side, had discovered
isolated specimens of the Calisaya, which, joined with
those found on Mount Camanti, indicated an extended belt of
that precious species. This was not the best. A veritable
treasure which they had unearthed, worth all the others put
together, was a line of those violet cinchonas which the native
exporters call Cascarilla morada, and the botanists
Cinchona Boliviana. The trees of this kind were grouped
in threes and fours, and extended for half a mile. This
repeated proof that the most valuable of all the cinchonas,
together with nearly every one of the others, were to be
discovered in a small radius along the valley of the Cconi,
filled the explorers with triumph, and demonstrated beyond a
doubt the sagacity of Don Santo Domingo in organizing the
expedition.
The purpose and intention of the journey was now abundantly
fulfilled. Had the travelers rested satisfied with the liberal
indications they had found, and consented to place themselves
between the haunts of the savages and the abodes of
civilization, with a tendency and determination toward the
latter, they might have returned with safety as with glory. The
estimate made by Eusebio, however, of the trend or direction of
the calisaya groves, induced him to forsake the bed of the
Cconi, and strike south-eastwardly, so as to cross the Ollachea
and the Ayapata.
"But the mountains are disappearing," hazarded Mr. Marcoy.
"Will not the cinchonas disappear with them?"
"Oh," answered the majordomo, like a pedagogue to a
confident school-boy, "the señor knows better how to put
ink or color on a sheet of paper than how to judge of these
things. The plain, the campo llano, is far enough to the
east. Before we should see the disappearance of the mountains,
we should have to cross as many hills and ravines as we have
left behind us."
"What do you think of doing, then?" naturally demanded
Marcoy, who had long since begun to feel that the expedition
had but one chief, and that was the sepia-colored cascarillero
from Bolivia,
"Everything and nothing," answered Eusebio.
These enigmas always carry the day. The apparatus of march
was once more set in motion toward the adjacent water-sheds.
After a considerable journey—rewarded, it must be said,
with a succession of cinchona discoveries—they halted
near a clearing in the forest, where large heaps of stones and
pebbles, arranged in semicircles, attracted their attention.
The cascarilleros explained this appearance as due to former
arrangements for gold-washing in an old river-bed, the San
Gavan or the Ayapata, that had now changed its locality.
While examining the unusual appearance an abominable clamor
burst from the woods around, and a band of Siriniris appeared,
led by a lusty ruffian crowned with oriole feathers, whom the
travelers recognized as having been among their previous
acquaintances.
The encounter was very disagreeable, but the strangers
determined to make the best of it. The manner of this band of
Indians was somewhat different from that of the others. They
brought nothing for barter, and had an indescribably coarse and
hardy style of behavior.
The travelers determined to buy a little information, if
nothing better, with their knives and fish-hooks. Garcia was
accordingly instructed to demand the meaning of the heaps and
causeways of stones. The savages laughed at first, but finally
informed the visitors that the constructions which puzzled them
so had been made by people of their own race many years ago,
for the purpose of gathering gold from the river which used to
run along there, but which now flowed seven miles off.
This information was dear to the historic instinct of
Marcoy. He spoke, by his usual proxy, to the Indian of the
oriole, commanding him not to begin every explanation by
laughing, as he had been doing, but to answer intelligently,
promising a reward of several knives. The savage exchanged a
rapid glance with his fellows, and then he and they stood up as
stiff and mute as the trees. Marcoy then asked him if he had
never heard his father or his grandfather speak of the great
city of San Gavan, built hereabouts formerly by the Spanish
chevaliers, and which the Caranga and Suchimani Indians from
the Inambari River had destroyed by fire.
The evident recognition of this legend by the savages, and
their rapid exchange among themselves of the words sacapa
huayris Ipaños, induced Marcoy to ask if they could
guide them to the site of the former city. They answered that a
day's march would be sufficient, and pointed with their arms in
the direction of north-north-west.
The temptation to see the place whose golden renown, after
having made the tour of the American continent, had reached
Spain and the world at large, was too strong to be resisted.
Colonel Perez, besides the magic attraction which the mention
of gold had for him, felt his national pride touched by the
idea of a place where his compatriots had added such
magnificence to the Spanish name, and gained so many ingots of
gold by paddling in the streams. The cascarilleros were
delighted to extend their journey, in hopes of yet larger
discoveries. As for the porters, since the manifestations of
the savages they clung to the party with as much anxiety as
they had ever shown to escape from it.
In 1767 the city of San Gavan, remaining intact amid the
ruin of all its neighbors, was the sole disburser of the riches
of the Caravaya Valley. The gold-dust, collected throughout the
whole territory on a government monopoly, was brought thither
upon the backs of Indians, melted into ingots, and distributed
to Lima and the world at large. On the night of the 15th and
16th of December in that year the wealthy city was fired by the
Carangas and the Suchimanis, and all the inhabitants slain with
arrows or clubs. The first lords of the soil had resumed their
rights.
When the news of the event was brought to Lima, the viceroy
of the period, Antonio Amat, swore on a piece of the true cross
to exterminate every Indian in Peru. It is to the persuasions
of his favorite, Mariquita Gallegas, that the preservation of
the native tribes from a bloody extirpation is due. This woman,
La Perichola, whose caricatured likeness we see in the
most agreeable of Offenbach's operas, and whose deeds of mercy
and edifying end in a convent entitle her to some charitable
consideration, persuaded her royal lover to operate on the
natives with missionaries and teachers rather than with fire
and sword. Antonio Amat yielded, and the Indians have
survived.
 'Another Savage Had Found a Pair of Linen Pantaloons.'
Let no traveler go to South America and cross the Andes with
the idea of unearthing a Nineveh or a Babylon on the site of
San Gavan. The emissaries of Don Santo Domingo were quickly
standing, among the grinning and amused Indians, on the
locality of the Golden Depot of San Gavan. But Nature had
thoroughly reclaimed her own, and the place, indicated again
and again by the savages with absolute unanimity, showed
nothing but mounds of fern and moss under canopies of forest
trees.
A day's rest and a sketch or two were consecrated by Marcoy
to this historic spot, the grave of a civilization. It had been
well if he had restrained his feelings of romance, and betaken
himself with his companions to the homeward track.
As the explorers were breakfasting in the morning on a
squirrel and a couple of birds shot among the vanished streets
of San Gavan, a disagreeable incident supervened. The wild
Indians had disappeared over-night. But now, seemingly born
instantaneously from the trees, a throng of Siriniris burst
upon the scene, rushing up to the travelers, straining them
repeatedly in a rude embrace, then leaving them, then
assaulting them again, and accompanying every contact with the
eternal cry, Siruta inta menea—"Give me a knife."
Each member of the troop had now six savages at his heels, and
they were not those of the day before, but a new and rougher
band. The chiefs of the party rushed together and brandished
their muskets. This forced the savages to retire, but gave to
the rencounter that hostile air which, in consideration of the
disparity of numbers, ought at all hazards to have been
avoided. The wild men quickly formed a circle around the
artillery. The latter, fearing for their porters and the
precious baggage, leaped through this circle and joined their
servants, making believe to cock their fire-arms. Upon this the
Indians, half afraid of the guns, vanished into the woods,
first picking up whatever clothing and utensils they could lay
their hands on. In an instant they were showing these trophies
to their rightful owners from a safe distance, laughing as if
they would split their sides. One of the naked rascals had
seized a flannel undershirt of the colonel's, which was drying
on a branch. His efforts to introduce his great feet into the
sleeves were excruciating. Another savage had found a pair of
linen pantaloons, which he was endeavoring to put on like a
coat, appearing much embarrassed with the posterior portion,
which completely masked his face. Aragon had seen a young
reprobate of his own age make off with a pair of socks of his
property. Detecting the rogue half hidden by a tree, the mozo
made a sortie, seized the Indian, and by a violent shake
brought the property out of his mouth, where it had been
concealed as in a natural pocket.
The travelers immediately threw themselves into marching
order and took up their line of route. The savages followed. At
the first obstacle, a mass of matted trees, they easily
rejoined the party of whites.
Then, for the first time, the idea of their power seemed to
strike them, and they precipitated themselves upon the porters,
who took to flight, rolling from under their packs like animals
of burden. In a moment every article of baggage, every knife
and weapon, was seized, and the red-skins, singing and howling,
were making off through the woods. Among them was now seen the
Siriniri with orioles' feathers, who must have guided them to
their prey.
The expedition was pillaged, and pillaged as a joke. The
thieves were heard laughing as they scampered off like deer
through the woods.
It was hard to realize at once the gravity of the
misfortune. No one was hurt, no one was insulted. But
provisions, clothing, articles of exchange and weapons were all
gone, except such arms and ammunition as the travelers carried
on their persons. A collection of cinchonas was in possession
of one of the Bolivians, though it represented but a fraction
of the species discovered. The besiegers, however, had
disappeared, and a westerly march was taken up. Good time was
made that day, and a heavy night's sleep was the consequence.
With the morning light came the well-remembered and hateful
cry, and the little army found itself surrounded by a throng of
merry naked demons, among whom were some who had not profited
by the distribution of the spoils. At the magic word
siruta all these new-comers rushed in a mass upon the
white men. Marcoy managed to slip his fine ivory-handled
machete within his trowser leg, but every other cutting tool
disappeared as if by magic from the possession of the
explorers. The shooting-utensils the savages, believing them
haunted, would not touch. Then, half irritated at the
exhaustion of the booty, the amiable children of Nature burst
out into open derision. The artists of the tribe, filling their
palms with rocoa, and moistening the same with saliva, went up
to their late patrons and began to decorate their faces. The
latter, judging patience their best policy, sat in silence
while the delicate fancy of the savages expended itself in
arabesques and flourishes. Perez and Aragon had their eyes
surrounded with red spectacles. The face of Marcoy, covered
with a heavy beard, only allowed room for a "W" on the
forehead, and Pepe Garcia was quit for a set of interfacings
like a checkerboard. Having thus signed their marks upon their
visitors, the aborigines retired, catching up here and there a
stray ball of cord or a strip of beef, saluting with the hand,
and vanishing into the woods with the repeated compliment,
Eminiki—"I am off."
The victims rested motionless for fifteen minutes: then
pellmell, through the thickest of the brush and down the
steepest of the hill, blotted out under gigantic ferns and
covered by umbrageous vines, stealing along water-courses and
skirting the sides of the mountains, they rushed precipitately
westward.
Two months after the priest of Marcapata had dismissed with
his benediction the party of confident and enthusiastic
explorers, he received again his strayed flock, but this time
in rags, armed with ammunitionless guns and one poor knife,
wasted by hunger, baked by the sun, and tattooed like
Polynesians by the briers and insects. The good man could not
repress a tear. "Ah, my son," said he as he clasped Marcoy's
hand, "see what it costs to go hunting the cascarilla in the
land of the infidels!"
The explorations started by Don Juan Sanz de Santo Domingo
came to profitable result, but not to his advantage. Three
weeks after the pioneers arrived again in Cuzco, Don Juan
started another expedition, on a much larger scale, to
accomplish the working of the cinchona valleys, under charge of
the same Bolivians, who could make like a bee for every tree
they had discovered. A detachment of soldiers was to protect
the party, and the working force was more than double. Finally,
the night before the intended start, the Bolivian
cascarilleros, with their examinador, disappeared together. It
is probable that Don Juan's scheme, nursed, according to
custom, with too much publicity, had attracted the attention of
the merchants of Cuzco, who had found it profitable to buy off
the bark-searchers for their own interest.
The crash of this immense enterprise was too much for Don
Juan. Threatened with creditors, Jews, escribanos and
the police, he retired to a silver-mine he was opening in the
province of Abancay. This mine, in successful operation, he
depended on for satisfying his creditors. He found it choked
up, destroyed with a blast of powder by some enemy. Unable to
bear the disappointment, Don Juan blew out his brains in the
office belonging to his mine. A month afterward, Don Eugenic
Mendoza y Jara, the bishop of Cuzco, sent a couple of Indians
for the body, with instructions to throw it into a ditch: the
men attached a rope to the feet and dragged it to a ravine,
where dogs and vultures disposed of the unhallowed
remains. |