RAMBLES
AMONG THE FRUITS AND FLOWERS OF THE TROPICS.
CONCLUDING PAPER.
An Arab vessel from Bombay, touching at Singapore on her way to
Bangkok, afforded us an opportunity we had been longing for to visit
the most splendid of Oriental cities.
Dining at the house of the Malayan rajah, we chanced to meet the
nárcodah (supercargo), who was also the owner, of the Futtel
Barrie. He was a handsome, courtly, and intelligent Arab, glad always
to mingle with Europeans; and in response to our inquiry whether he
had room for passengers, he proffered us a free ticket to and from
Bangkok, with the use of his own cabin. We must be on board the next
day at noon, he said, and it was already verging toward sunset; so we
had small time for preparation. But with the migratory habits of
Oriental tourists it was easy to throw together a few indispensables;
and we were set down on the Barrie's quarterdeck, portmanteaus,
sketch-books, specimen-baskets and all, before the anchor was
weighed.
The monsoon was favorable, and seven days' sail brought us to
the river's mouth, and a pull thence of thirty miles in the
nárcodah's boat to the "city of kings."
Siam is verily the queen of the tropics in regard to the
abundance, variety and unequaled lusciousness of her fruits. Here are
found those of China, greatly enriched in tint and flavor by being
transplanted to this warmer climate; and those of Western Asia, in
this fruitful soil far more productive than in the sterile regions of Persia and Arabia; while
numberless varieties from the Malayan and Indian archipelagoes,
united with the host of those indigenous to the country, complete a
list of some two hundred or more species of edible fruits. In this
clime of perennial freshness trees bear nearly the year round, and so
productive is the soil that the annual produce is almost incredible.
The tax on orchards alone yields to the Crown a revenue of some five
millions of dollars per annum, as I was informed by the late
"second king" of Siam. It is not unusual to find on a
single branch the bud and blossom, together with fruit in several
different stages. Thus, at the merest trifle of expense a table may
be supplied during the entire year with forty or fifty specimens of
fresh, ripe fruit. Among these are many varieties of oranges and
pineapples, pumeloes, shaddocks, pawpaws, guavas, bananas, plantains,
durians, jack-fruit, melons, grapes, mangoes, cocoa-nuts,
pomegranates, soursaps, linchies, custard-apples, breadfruit,
cassew-nuts, plums, tamarinds, mangosteens, rambustans, and scores of
others for which we have no names in our language. Tropical fruits
are generally juicy, sweet with a slight admixture of acid, luscious,
and peculiarly agreeable in a warm climate; and when partaken of with
temperance and due regard to quality they are highly promotive of
health. For this reason Booddhists regard the destruction of a fruit
tree as quite an act of sacrilege, and their sacred books pronounce a
heavy malediction on those who wantonly commit so great a crime. One
who has tasted the fruits of the tropics only at a distance from the
soil that produces them can form no conception of the real flavor of
plums and grapes that never felt the frosty atmosphere of our
northern clime; of oranges plucked ripe from the fragrant stem and
eaten fresh while the morning dew still glitters on their
golden-tinted cheeks; of the rare, rosy pomegranate juice, luscious
as nectar.
After eating the fruits of all climes, I place the mangosteen at
the head of the list as absolutely perfect in flavor and fragrance.
The fruit is spherical in form, about the size of a small orange, of
a rich crimson-purple hue without, and filled with a succulent,
half-transparent pulp that melts in the mouth. There are three
species of the mangosteen tree, but of only one, the Garania
mangostina, is the fruit edible. The others are valuable for
timber, and the bark for the manufacture of a dye that resists the
attacks of every sort of insect.
Next to the mangosteen I should name the custard-apple (Anona
squamosa), a rich and delicate fruit of the form and dimensions
of a medium-sized quince, but made up of lesser cones, each with its
apex directed toward the centre, and each containing a smooth black
seed. The pulp is pure white, about the consistency of a baked
custard, and in flavor very like strawberries and cream.
The delicious soursap is very similar to the custard-apple, but of
larger size and slightly acid in taste. The bearded, rosy rambustan
(Nephelium lappaceum) looks like a mammoth strawberry, but
when the outer hairy covering has been removed a semi-transparent
pulp is revealed, in taste so similar to our best Malaga grapes that
a blind man would be unable to distinguish them.
Pineapples are good and abundant all over South-eastern Asia, but
are in their perfection at Singapore and Malacca, weighing frequently
four pounds or more. Passing, one warm afternoon, along the Singapore
bazaar, I noticed a Chinese fruit-dealer who had among other
delicacies outspread before him the largest and finest pineapples I
had ever seen. As I inquired the price, the Celestial, after a long
harangue on the extraordinary excellence of his wares, and the
trouble he had taken to obtain them, expressed a hope that he should
not be considered extortionate in selling them so very high, the
price demanded for a whole four-pound pineapple, peeled, sliced, and
ready for eating, being the equivalent of half a cent! The ordinary,
medium-sized fruit could be purchased, he knew, at one-fifth of that
sum, and his conscience, no doubt, was chiding him for
extortion.
One of the most singular-looking fruits is the jack-fruit
(Artocarpus integrifolia), growing in all its immensity of
thirty or forty pounds weight directly out of the largest branches or
on the stem of the huge tree. Externally, it has a rough, pale-green
coat: internally, it has a luscious, golden-hued pulp, in which are
embedded a dozen or more smooth, oval seeds about the size of large
chestnuts, which they strikingly resemble in flavor.
The mango (Mangifera Indica) is a drupe of the plum kind,
four or five inches long, and three at least in diameter.
Greenish-colored outside, and not very inviting, you are most
agreeably surprised at the rare, rich flavor of the bright yellow
pulp that adheres like the clinging peach to a large flat seed.
The gamboge tree (Stalagmitis Cambogioides) grows
luxuriantly in Siam, and also in Ceylon. It has small narrow, pointed
leaves, a yellow flower, and an oblong, golden-colored fruit. Even
the stem has a yellow bark, like the gamboge it produces. The drug is
obtained by wounding the bark of the tree, and also from the leaves
and young shoots. The natives say that they have sold it to white
foreigners for hundreds of years past; and we know it was introduced
into Europe early in the seventeenth century.
The plantain (Musa paradisaica) is one of the best gifts of
Providence to the teeming multitudes of tropical lands, living, as
many of them do, without stated homes, and gathering food and drink
as they find them on the roadside and in the jungle. Under a friendly
palm the simple peasants find needed shelter from the sun by day and
the dews by night, while a bunch of plantains or bananas plucked
fresh from the tree will furnish an abundant meal, and the water of a
green cocoa-nut all the drink they desire. The plantain tree grows to
about twenty feet in height, its round, soft stem being composed of
the elongated foot-stalks of the leaves, and its cone of a nodding
flower-spike or cluster of purple blossoms that are very graceful and
beautiful. Like the palms, this tree has no branches, but its smooth,
glossy leaves are from six to eight feet in length and two or more in
breadth. At the root of a leaf a double row of fruit comes out half
around the stalk; the stem then elongates a few inches, and another
leaf is deflected, revealing another double row; and so on, till
there come to be some thirty rows containing about two hundred
plantains, weighing in all sixty or seventy pounds. This mammoth
bunch is the sole product of the tree for the time: after the fruit
is plucked the stalk is cut down, and another shoots up from the same
root; and it is thus constantly renewed for many successive years.
The incalculable blessing of such a tree in regions where the
intolerable heat renders all labor oppressive may be conceived from
the estimate of Humboldt, who reckons the surface of ground needed to
the production of four thousand pounds of ripe plantains to suffice
for the raising of only thirty-three pounds of wheat or ninety-nine
pounds of potatoes. What would induce the indolent East Indian to
make the exchange of crops?
The cassew-nut (Anacardium occidentale) is remarkable as
the only known fruit of which the seed grows on the outside. A
full-grown tree is twenty feet high, with graceful form and
widespread branches. The leaves are oval, and the beautiful crimson
flowers grow in clusters. The fruit is pear-shaped, of a purplish
color outside and bright yellow within; and the seed, which is in the
form of a crescent, looks just as if it had been stuck on the bur
end, instead of growing there. When roasted the kernels are not
unlike a very fine chestnut.
The guava (Psidium pomiferum), of which the noted Indian
jelly is made, is about the size and shape of our sugar
pears—pale, yellowish-green externally, and revealing, when
opened, a soft, rose-colored pulp studded with tiny seeds. Both taste
and odor are very peculiar, and are seldom liked by foreigners till
after long use.
The tamarind tree (Tamarindus Indicus), a huge growth, with trunk a hundred feet
tall and fifteen or more in circumference, has branches extending
widely, and a dense foliage of bright green composite leaves, very
nearly resembling those of the sensitive plant. The flowers, growing
in clusters, are exquisite, of a rich golden tint veined with red;
while the fruit hangs pendent, like bean-pods strung all over the
branches of the mammoth tree. The diminutive leaves, blossoms and
fruit are so singularly opposed to the stately growth as to appear
almost ludicrous, yet the tout ensemble is "a thing of
beauty" never to be forgotten.
It remained for us, on our return to Singapore, to see the spice
plantations, with the beautiful clove and nutmeg trees, about which
every new-comer goes into ecstasies. Mr. Princeps' estate, one of
the largest and finest on the island, occupies two hundred and fifty
acres, including three picturesque hills—Mount Sophia, Mount
Emily and Mount Caroline, each surmounted by a pretty
bungalow—and from these avenues radiate, intersecting every
portion of the plantation. Here were planted some five thousand
nutmeg trees, and perhaps a thousand of the clove, besides coffee
trees, palms, etc. The nutmeg is an evergreen of great beauty,
conical in shape, and from twenty to twenty-five feet in height, the
branches thickly decorated with polished, deep-green foliage rising
from the ground to the summit. Almost hidden among these emerald
leaves grows the pear-shaped fruit. As it ripens the yellow external
tegument opens, revealing the dark-red mace, that is closely
enwrapped about a thin black shell. This, in turn, encloses a
fragrant kernel, the nutmeg of commerce. Both leaf and blossom are
marked by the same aromatic perfume that distinguishes the fruit.
The clove tree, though somewhat smaller than the nutmeg, is quite
similar in appearance, and, if possible, even more graceful and
beautiful. The leaves are shaped like a lance, the blossoms pure
white and deliciously fragrant, and they cluster thickly on every
branch and twig almost to the summit of the tree. The
cloves—"spice nails," as they are often
called—are not a fruit, but undeveloped buds, the stem being
the calyx, and the head the folded petals. Their dark color, as we
see them, is due to the smoking process through which they pass in
curing. The clove is a native of the Moluccas, and has been
transplanted to many parts of the East Indies; but nowhere, not even
in its picturesque Faderland, does it thrive better than in
Singapore, Pulo Penang and other islands of the Malayan
Archipelago.
One singular-looking fruit that I saw in China I must not forget
to mention—the flat peach, called by the Chinese ping
taou, or "peach cake." It has the appearance of having
been flattened by pressure at the head and stalk, being something
less than three-fourths of an inch through the centre from eye to
stem, and consisting wholly of the stone and skin; while the sides,
which swell around the centre, are only an eighth of an inch in
thickness. Its transverse diameter is about two and a half
inches.
The camphor tree (Laurus camphora) grows abundantly in
China and Japan, producing a very large proportion of the gum that
supplies the markets of Europe and our own country, as well as the
trunks and chests so universally esteemed as protectives against the
ravages of moths and the still more destructive white ant of the
tropics. This tree grows to the height of twenty feet, with a
circumference of about eighteen, and has luxuriant branches from
seven to nine feet in girth. In obtaining the gum, freshly-gathered
branches are cut in small pieces, and steeped in water for several
days, after which they are boiled, the liquid being constantly
stirred until the gum, in the form of a white jelly, begins to
appear, when the whole is poured into a glazed vessel, and becomes
concreted in cooling. It is afterward purified by means of
sublimation, the gum attaching itself to a conical cover placed over
the boiling liquid while at its greatest heat. There is another
species of camphor tree (Dryobalanops camphora) growing in
Borneo; and a single tree is found on the island of Sumatra, a very giant in dimensions, even
amid the huge growth of those dense forests. The gum yielded by this
species is found occupying portions of about a foot or a foot and a
half in the heart of the tree. The Malays and Bugis make a deep
incision in the trunk about fifteen inches from the ground with a
b'ling or Malayan axe, in order to ascertain whether the
gum is there; and when it is found the tree is felled and the
impregnated portion carefully extracted. The same tree, while young,
yields a liquid oily matter that has nearly the same properties as
the camphor, and is supposed to be the first stage of its formation.
Some eight China catties (eleven pounds) of this oil may be obtained
from a medium-sized tree, which, after having been cut off for the
purpose of abstracting the oil, will, if left standing for a few
years, produce abundantly an inferior article of camphor.
In British India we saw whole fields of the opium poppy, stately,
beautiful plants four or five feet high, the stem of a sea-green
color, round, erect and smooth, and the gay blooms of ripe crimson
hue. The plant is an annual, the seed being sown in autumn and the
crop gathered in August. After the flowers have fallen circular
incisions are made close around the capsules of the plant, and from
these wounds exudes a white, milky juice, that is afterward concreted
by the heat of the sun into dark-brown masses. These constitute the
opium of commerce in its crude state; but to prepare it for smoking
the Chinese take it through quite a complicated process, boiling,
purifying and condensing till it assumes the appearance of a thick
gelatinous paste of a purplish-black color.
The habit of opium-smoking is unquestionably the direst curse
under which vast, populous China groans. One who has never visited an
opium shop can have no conception of the fatal fascination that holds
its victims fast bound—mind, heart, soul and conscience, all
absolutely dead to every impulse but the insatiable, ever-increasing
thirst for the damning poison. I entered one of these dens but once,
but I can never forget the terrible sights and sounds of that
"place of torment." The apartment was spacious, and might
have been pleasant but for its foul odors and still fouler scenes of
unutterable woe—the footprints of sin trodden deep in the
furrows of those haggard faces and emaciated forms. On all four sides
of the room were couches placed thickly against the walls, and others
were scattered over the apartment wherever there was room for them.
On each of these lay extended the wreck of what was once a man. Some
few were old—all were hollow-eyed, with sunken cheeks and
cadaverous countenances; many were clothed in rags, having probably
smoked away their last dollar; while others were offering to pawn
their only decent garment for an additional dose of the deadly drug.
A decrepit old man raised himself as we entered, drew a long sigh,
and then with a half-uttered imprecation on his own folly proceeded
to refill his pipe. This he did by scraping off, with a five-inch
steel needle, some opium from the lid of a tiny shell box, rolling
the paste into a pill, and then, after heating it in the blaze of a
lamp, depositing it within the small aperture of his pipe. Several
short whiffs followed; then the smoker would remove the pipe from his
mouth and lie back motionless; then replace the pipe, and with
fast-glazing eyes blow the smoke slowly through his pallid nostrils.
As the narcotic effects of the opium began to work he fell back on
the couch in a state of silly stupefaction that was alike pitiable
and disgusting. Another smoker, a mere youth, lay with face buried in
his hands, and as he lifted his head there was a look of despair such
as I have seldom seen. Though so young, he was a complete wreck, with
hollow eyes, sunken chest and a nervous twitching in every muscle. I
spoke to him, and learned that six months before he had lost his
whole patrimony by gambling, and came hither to quaff forgetfulness
from these Lethean cups; hoping, he said, to find death as well as
oblivion. By far the larger proportion of the smokers were so
entirely under the influence of
the stupefying poison as to preclude any attempt at conversation, and
we passed out from this moral pest-house sick at heart as we thought
of these infatuated victims of self-indulgence and their starving
families at home. This baneful habit, once formed, is seldom given
up, and from three to five years' indulgence will utterly wreck
the firmest constitution, the frame becoming daily more emaciated,
the eyes more sunken and the countenance more cadaverous, till the
brain ceases to perform its functions, and death places its seal on
the wasted life.
On "Araby's plains" I saw for the first time the
beautiful wild palm, the "lighthouse of the desert," always
an object of intense desire to the weary traveler as he traverses
those sterile regions, for as it looms up in the distance, sometimes
in groups, but more generally standing in solitary grandeur near a
tiny bubbling spring, its waving plumes tell him not only of shelter
and needed rest, but of water also to bathe his tired limbs and
quench the burning thirst that oppresses him almost to death. Should
the friendly tree prove a date-palm, he will find food also—a
dainty repast of ripe, golden fruit, wholesome and
nourishing—ready prepared to his hand. But, after all, to a
traveler over those sterile regions water is the grand desideratum,
and this he is sure to find in the vicinity of the wild palm. The
Bedouins, who consider it beneath their dignity to sow or reap,
gather the date where they can find it growing wild; but the Arabs of
the plains cultivate the tree with great care and skill, thus
improving the size and flavor of the fruit, and producing some twenty
or more varieties. In some they have succeeded in doing away with the
seed altogether; and the seedless dates, being very large and
delicately-flavored, bring always the highest price in the market.
Date-honey is made by expressing the juice of the fresh fruit, and
the luxury of fresh dates may be enjoyed through the entire year by
keeping them in tight vessels, covered over with this honey.
Date-flour, made by exposing the ripe fruit to the heat of the sun
until sufficiently dry to be ground into fine powder, furnishes the
ordinary sustenance of the Arabs in their frequent journeys across
the deserts. This is food in its most condensed form, easily carried
and needing no cooking. It is simply moistened with a little water,
and so eaten. But the value of the date tree is by no means confined
to the fruit. An agreeable beverage, known as palm wine, is drawn
from the trunk by tapping; the trunks of the old trees make excellent
timber; the leaves are used for hats and baskets; and the fibrous
part, when stripped out, makes twine and ropes. Even the stones are
of use—the fresh ones for planting, and the dried are turned to
account—in Egypt for cattle-feed, in China for the manufacture
of Indian ink, and in Spain for making the tooth-powder known as
"ivory black." The date is indigenous to both Asia and
Africa: it was introduced into Spain by the Moors, and some few trees
are still found even in the south of France. But the most extensive
forests are those of the Barbary states, where they are sometimes
miles in length. When growing thus in groves the palms are very
beautiful, their towering crests waving in unison as they seem to
form an immense natural temple, about which vines and creepers wreath
their graceful tendrils, while birds of varied plumage sing their
matin and vesper songs, plucking meanwhile the golden fruit that
grows in clusters at the very summit of the tree. The Arabs' mode
of gathering this fruit is odd enough. The trunk, sixty feet high,
has not, it must be remembered, a single branch to hold on by or
furnish a foothold; and, besides, the whole stem is rough with thick
scales or horny protuberances, not very pleasant to the touch of
fingers or palms. So a strong rope is passed across the climber's
back and under his armpits, and then, after being passed around the
tree, the two ends are knotted firmly together. The rope is next
placed over one of the notches left by the footstalk of an old leaf,
while the man slips the portion that is under his armpits toward the
middle of his back, so as to allow the lower part of the shoulder-blades to rest upon it. Then
with hands and knees he firmly grasps the trunk, and raises himself a
few inches higher; when, still holding fast by knees and feet and one
hand, he with the other slips the rope a little higher up the tree,
letting it rest on another of these horny protuberances, and so on
till the summit is gained. When the fruit is reached it is easily
plucked with one hand, while the gatherer maintains his position with
the other, and the clusters are thrown down into a large cloth held
at the corners by four persons.
The far-famed banian or Indian fig (Ficus Indica) is
perhaps the grandest of tropical trees—the most beautiful of
Nature's products, even in that fertile soil kissed ever by the
sun's rays, where she sports with such profusion and variety,
clothing the earth in gorgeous flowers, variegated mosses and
feathery ferns, till it seems to groan beneath the manifold treasures
of beauty and fragrance lavished thereon. This noble tree grows wild
in many Eastern countries and islands, and sometimes attains to a
size and an extent that are marvelous to contemplate. Shoots are
everywhere thrown out toward the ground from the horizontal branches,
increasing in size as they tend downward, till at last they strike
into the ground and become stems. From these shoot new branches,
which in their turn extend and form roots and new stems, till at
length a solitary tree becomes the parent of an extensive grove,
appropriately characterized by the bard as "a pillared shade
high overarched." And as they are thus continually increasing,
seeming meanwhile almost exempt from the general law of decay, a tiny
sapling borne to the spot in an infant's hand may come in time to
cover thousands of feet of soil. Such a specimen is the noted Cubber
Burr, growing on a picturesque little island in the river Nerbudda,
near Baroach, in the province of Guzerat. This wonderful tree, named
after a venerated Hindoo saint, occupies a space that exceeds two
thousand feet in circumference. The principal stems number three or
four hundred, and the smaller ones more than three thousand, though
some have been destroyed by high floods, that have carried away not
only portions of the giant tree, but of the banks of the island
itself. The beauty and magnitude of the Cubber Burr are famous all
over the East. Indian armies have encamped beneath its sheltering
branches, and Hindoo festivals, to which thousands of votaries
repair, are often held under its leafy shadow. I was told that
seven thousand people could find ample shelter under its
widespread branches; and we often knew of English gentlemen forming
hunting or shooting excursions to the island, and encamping for weeks
together beneath this delightful pavilion. Their only hosts were
frolicsome monkeys and whole colonies of doves, peacocks,
wood-pigeons and singing birds, that find a permanent abode among the
thick foliage, and plentiful sustenance from the small,
scarlet-colored figs that hang pendent from every branch. The banian
tree may be regarded as a natural temple in Oriental regions, and the
Hindoos especially look upon it with profound veneration. Tiny,
fancifully-adorned temples and pagodas are erected beneath its
shadowy boughs, where are pleasant walks and long vistas of
umbrageous canopy, effectually shielded from the fierce rays of the
tropical sun. Many Brahmins spend their entire lives within these
quiet retreats, and all ranks and classes seek them for rest and
recreation. The banian is styled also "the tree of
councils," from the prevalent custom of assembling legislators,
magistrates and savants under its protecting canopy to deliberate on
civil affairs; while all around, ensconced in every niche, are the
tutelary gods and goddesses that make up the Hindoo mythology. It is
indeed a quaint, weird spot, full of the witchery of romance and
legendary lore; and though years have passed since I last sat under
the Cubber Burr's sheltering boughs with a merry party of
picnicking maidens, now grown to womanhood, imagination still loves
to roam among its shadows, and build fairy castles within the mazy
windings of the hoary banian of Nerbudda's isle.
FANNIE R. FEUDGE.
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